Be Excellent To Each Other

Help request for plumbing / heating engineers (or would-be engineers)!

I have a Worcester Bosch 240RSF combi and today I bought a Sunvic TLX RFP (an RF room thermostat). Do you think I can wire the fucker in so it works? No. So I need advice.

The boiler has 2 live outs and neutral, it doesn't do volt free. Currently the lives are bridged. The stat receiver has 2 live terminals and a neutral. So how hard can this be? I have removed the bridging and wired it all in. It appears to be behaving correctly, however when the stat temperature drops sufficient to create demand, instead of kicking the boiler in, the receiver just clicks (a relay?) repeatedly and flashes its 2 pointless LEDs.

It seems simple to wire in, I suspect the receiver is faulty, but I bought it through my work's account at a trade supplier, so am expecting them to be shitty when I go back. I just want to be sure it's not me.

Anyone have any experience of this sort of thing?

No

Put a jumper on.

That should work.
Does the boiler run when it's bridged?


edit: just to explain how those should be wired up:

The boiler has a neutral, a live and an input. When you bridge the input to the live (either with the thermostat relay or a piece of wire), it should start.

The thermostat needs a neutral and live to work, and it also has a switch output (relay contacts) which connects the output to live when it wants heat.

So, just make sure you've got the live connected to the live and the input connected to the output.


The relay shouldn't click "repeatedly" though, it should be on or off.

Try flashing the BIOS.

Buy an Xbox 360!

Hang on, is the receiver like this?



And the boiler like this?




If so, you need to go

Yes. Exactly that. Your diagram for the stat shows a volt free wiring diagram. My stat has that design, but it comes with a wire preinstalled bridging the 2 volt free connections. I read the (useless) instructions as meaning to leave that wire in place for the "standard" installation I am attempting, or remove it in order to wire in the volt free connections for a volt free installation.

Things are also not labelled up as 1, 2 , 3, 4 etc on the stat. Which is shit.

Hold on. I think I may have committed some stupidity by not reading the instructions properly. Cos that's not like me.

Kalmar mate, well fucking done. You made me go and look at what I'd wired in and I saw my OBVIOUS mistake.

I hadn't wired the live into the same terminal as the bridge wire, I'd wired it into SL(off).

Thanks mate! :-

It works exactly as I'd hoped, I can still use the timer / programmer on the combi, but use the stat to control temperature. Ace.

Awesome, glad it worked

I want to know why, in late 2009, heating systems aren't properly intelligent yet.

My last two places had programmable blocks of time, so I could specify what temperature I wanted at 4pm on Thursday and so on - but they still only had one thermostat, and each radiator then had a stupid thermostatic valve on.

This place has a simple 24 hour timer, a main thermostat, and the radiators as before.

What I want is to have a thermostat in every room (located optimally, rather than right next to the heat source) which can tell the boiler (so it starts pumping hot water) and tied-in radiators (which open their valves) their temperatures. That should be totally boggo by now.

My old boiler had a digital timer, so you could set start and stop times differently for each day. But only two start and stop times.
My new boiler has an analogue timer. You can have as many start and stop times as you like, but it doesn't care about days of the week.

FFS.