We're not very fond of our prime ministers. We force them to face hostile questioning once a week, we mock them whenever possible, and, once their time is up, push them out of Downing Street with barely enough time to pack or say goodbye to the cleaners. Few of us can even remember the names of even a quarter of the fifty or so men and one woman to have held the top job in British politics. It's pretty rare for a PM to even be honoured with a statue - Churchill, Attlee, Lloyd-George, and Thatcher have made it, but you'd have to look pretty hard for one of Bonar Law or Henry Campball-Bannerman. The idea that ex-Prime Ministers would be able to raise millions to construct a museum to their legacy, or that people would willingly pay to visit a John Major Prime Ministerial Centre (and gift shop) is laughable.
Presidents of the United States, however, take their legacies seriously. Every president since Franklin D Roosevelt has a library and museum operated by the government dedicated to them, and under various laws each outgoing President has to find a location to store their archives. They undertake massive fundraising operations to build them, and their openings are grand affairs full of pomp and as many survivors of the ex-presidents' club as can be humanely gathered. With a few hours to kill in Little Rock, Arkansas, I decided to visit
Bill Clinton's Presidential Library.
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The building overhangs a river, to represent his 'Bridges to the Future' theme of his 1996 re-election campaign. There's a nicely landscaped park surrounding the centre, and a restored iron railway bridge you can walk over which represents a future bridge in a time of rising gas prices, or something. After going through security I paid my $7 entry fee and wandered into the museum. The only exhibit on the ground floor is Clinton's presidential Cadillac. It looked suitably comfy and there was a fun panel showing some of the equipment the secret service agents would carry on them as he went on his travels.
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The
first second floor contains the main exhibits. After looking at a panel of numbers showing how the economy had improved in his eight years, how much unemployment had fallen, and generally every other statistic that can be used to show that Clinton presided over a booming time for the United States, and sitting through a surprisingly not cheesy film on his life, narrated by Bill himself, you reach the main displays. Big panels shows key themes of Clinton's presidency, surrounded by documents from the time and other paraphernalia. The Northern Irish chess set was a particularly memorable gift, with an suitably large grin on the Blair figure. There was even a panel on Al Gore's many achievements during his vice-presidency, such as inventing the Internet (but nothing on the 2000 election).
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You can visit an exact replica of the cabinet room in the Clinton-era White House and, brilliantly, sit in the large and surprisingly comfy leather chairs! Each one is labelled with the title of the office-holder, but I couldn't get a snap of me sitting in the replica 'President of the United States' or 'Secretary for Agriculture' chairs due to a school group who were playing with the interactive screens on the table which explains what a US cabinet minister does (or is supposed to do) all day.
Running down the centre of the floor is a large timeline of the events in Washington, the US, and the wider world during each year of his presidency. Samples of his daily schedules, suitably edited, for each month are also available, although when he wasn't making official visits or being inaugurated they mostly read 'meeting', 'meeting', 'meeting'.
Of course, the incidents everyone remembers about Clinton are only alluded too. There's a panel on his relations with Congress and the extreme antipathy of the Republicans towards him, discussing major division points such as the failed healthcare plans and the impeachment process, but as with the board on 1998 and 1999, it only refers to a 'serious personal mistake'. Hey, we're all human!
Climb the stairs to the
second third floor and, after passing through a display of the typically tacky gifts world leaders are fond of giving each other and a cabinet of voters' drawings of the White House cat, is a large replica of the Oval Office as Clinton would have known it, correct to the tiniest detail. Sadly, you can only peer through the doors, as presumably they don't want visitors re-enacting important events from the Clinton presidency on the replica Resolute Desk.
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Certainly, the purpose of the museum is to promote a version of the Clinton Presidency which Bill would like you to remember. Yet, despite its obvious 'the 1990s were brilliant and it's all down to Bill Clinton' angle, it's hard to look through its lists of his achievements (Northern Ireland, the balanced budget, and the economy, stupid) and not miss the guy. Having had my fill of 90s nostalgia, I looked longingly at all the blue boxfiles lining the walls, each showing an gold-embossed version of the presidential seal, took one last look at the Cadillac, and went on my way.